The Golden Standard of Schmuckashau

Schmuckashau, the word the reviewer uses, refers to the old name of the jewelry event in Munich, which was once addressed as Schmuck Schau, which literally means “jewelry exhibition.” Today, it is simply called Schmuck. But in English, the word “schmuck,” which is spelled the same way but without a capital “S,” has a rather questionable connotation. It is slang, used for penis and for an obnoxious or contemptible person—a difficult word to use in English and very remote from jewelry. Schmuckashau is a wonderful invention.

Arline Fisch: Hanging Gardens

In the late 70s, an exciting shop called Cheap Jewellery opened in London, showing a vast expanse of nontraditional work in fabric, wood, plastic, anodized aluminum, and found objects. In Europe, there appeared serious and elegant work in steel, glass, and plastics. Suddenly, it seemed, jewelry around the world had entered a new era, which has continued to evolve in ever more interesting and experimental directions.

Georg Dobler and Margit Jäschke: Twogether

Nature is a great challenge. It can inspire you, it can alienate you, but no one can ever surpass it. When one observes nature—something grown out of itself—one can only go down on one’s knees in awe.

Griddle Incense Ass—or—Lost in Translation

Some time ago, when studying the menu in a restaurant in China, I stumbled over the dish “Griddle Incense Ass.” Having been living in China for two years by now, I know that Chinese and Western tastes differ quite a bit. Nevertheless, I also know that nobody here eats anybody’s ass. Hence, something obviously had been lost in translation. With the rise of Chinese contemporary jewelry, Western audiences may want to be cautious about how they tend to interpret some of the pieces shown in international exhibitions.

Helen Britton: Unheimlich

Part of the reason for this exhibition was to give space and concentration to make work that explored the theme and to see what happened, what came out. Another part of this exhibition was, as in answer to the last question, to build a complete work that encompassed all facets of the things I produce. I don’t think you can capture feeling, but perhaps you can convey something more sinister, more mysterious than usual, and as this is the first body of work in this direction, we will see what happens next.

Hans Stofer: String Theory

String is timeless, and it is totally democratic and open to creative applications. Everybody can and does use it, and when doing so, we all inevitably enter into some kind of creative and decision-making process that becomes a manifestation of our thinking.

10 Most Pertinent Displays At Schmuck 2014, Munich

Here I've asked our contributors to look for the most interesting, freshest display conventions realized at collateral Schmuck shows that really boost the work as well as the ideas behind the work and/or exhibition. Perhaps the display is an extension of the work itself or an elaboration of the show's concept that frames the pieces rather than just a quirky step up from jewelry on tabletops or hanging from the wall. There's got to be a good reason behind the kind of display implemented or built, a logic for why the pieces are shown the way they are shown.

Show and Tell: Calder Jewelry and Mobiles

Engaging with jewelry represents a challenge for artists not sensitive to its potential for embodied meaning. In this instance, it was particularly tricky to strike the right balance between whimsy and weight. The exhibition ambitiously matched relatively sober sculptures, assemblages, paintings, and photographs with Calder’s quirky modernism. Could such marriages work?

Carina Chitsaz-Shoshtary

I was on my way to the cafe where I was working when I first found pieces of graffiti on the ground. I was immediately drawn to their great painterly quality. I collected the colored sheets for a while and started to experiment with them, but it took me more than a year to seriously start working with the graffiti paint. The richness and beauty of the material was both a potential and a danger. You could easily take a piece, make a hole in it, add a nice string, and it could work as a piece of contemporary jewelry. But,...

10 Most Exciting Juxtapositions at Schmuck 2014, Munich

With this category, I prompted our contributors the following: This one could be quite fun as artists are beginning to really take exhibitions into their own hands by creating their own group shows. The idea is to start to think about why we pair certain work with certain work or put it in certain places, and what brings it all together for the artist and for the viewer.

From the Forum

Exhibition

Neo-palatial

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Framed

Exhibition

A Bit of Clay on the Skin

Exhibition

The State of Things