Fall foliage shines for the opening of what we fondly call Leaf Peeper Season here in the Hudson River Valley (the peepers invade by the busload, and I think they find us locals as “colorful” as the trees). All this color provides a wonderful backdrop for writing my first issue of AJFconnection.
Here we go. First, I must thank Sally von Bargen for graciously passing the editor baton and still (thankfully) continuing to help me with my first few issues. We all owe Sally a big round of applause for launching AJFconnection and providing such great content. Here, here!
In this issue of AJFconnection, we:
recap our amazing trip to Houston for the premiere of the Helen Williams Drutt jewelry collection, where we were the “first peepers,”
interview outgoing AJF Board Treasurer Elizabeth Shypertt, co-owner of the Velvet da Vinci gallery in San Francisco,
meet AJF Emerging Artist 2007 winner Andrea Janosik, and
preview SOFA Chicago and the Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show, both early November headliners.
When you have AJF-related news to share, please email it to me (janeshannon@taconic.net) by the 5th day of each month and we’ll get your information into that month’s newsletter (or let you know when it will appear). We aim to distribute AJFconnection during the second or third week of each month. Please also send me your ideas for topics or people you’d like to see featured here.
And now, on with the show!
AJF Members Meet in Houston for an Historic Exhibition
Whatever words you want to use to attempt to describe the 275 pieces of art jewelry from Helen Drutt’s collection on display at the Museum of Fine Art Houston, no words seem to live up to the reality.
Even the professionals were at a loss. “We risk burying this exhibition in a heap of superlatives,” confirms Glenn Adamson, Victoria & Albert Museum, “In any context, this show would be a milestone.” As example, he points to the “contemporary feel and timelessness” of Helen’s jewelry, collected from the 1960s on.
AJF member Cindi Strauss serves as curator for this superlative exhibit, called Ornament as Art: Avant-Garde Jewelry in the Helen Williams Drutt Collection, which premiered at the Museum of Fine Arts Houston (MFAH) on Friday, September 28.
AJF Houston trip planners Susan Cummins and Sally von Bargen didn’t miss a beat - we were on the go, learning, seeing, doing, dining, exploring, shopping, collecting, and experiencing a variety of wonders in Houston. Here are some highlights:
We honor Pat Rodimer - At dinner on our first night in town, on behalf of all AJF members Sally thanked outgoing AJF board members Elizabeth Shypertt, Rikka Mouw, and Jo Lauria, and gave a special thanks to Pat for her service over the past nine years, seven of which she served as President. Pat has researched, planned, and orchestrated many AJF trips; edited the hard copy newsletter in earlier years; and created our website. She received a Ford and Forlano brooch in recognition of all she’s done for AJF.
AJF gets a first peep, er, peek - Cindi guided us through Helen’s collection the day before the official exhibit opening. After Helen, we were the first to see the completed installation, which dazzles us with its great use of light and the resulting shadows the jewelry creates-the suspension of necklaces and brooches in cases where you can view them from a variety of angles-and in the inventive use of mannequins (which Cindi admits she normally hates) to demonstrate clearly how certain pieces fit on the body. (Like that gorgeous collar of roses with a drop of dew by Gijs Bakker, ah, now I know how to wear it!)
And, we loved it. “It brought tears to my eyes, to see these pieces in person that I had previously only seen in books,” says collector Susan Beech. “I wanted to rip those three gold and plastic rings by Claus Bury right out of the case.”
Helen’s “aha” moment - Cindi explained to us how she organized the exhibit, and she pointed out the specific Stanley Lechtzin brooch that started Helen’s journey (her “aha” moment, as it were).
As you can see from the encyclopedic eight-pound exhibition catalog, a must-have for every serious jewelry collector (available from the MFA Houston at a reduced price of $90, see www.mfah.org, then go to “shop” and then “exhibition catalogs”), Helen’s collection spans 18 countries and numbers more than 700 pieces.
Helen’s collection also offers one common denominator that her dear friend Ann Tucker, curator of photography at MFAH, succinctly clarified for Helen and the rest of us, “Helen, your intelligence shows in every choice you made.”
While this is true, Cindi needed to present Helen’s collection in terms that would help both the knowledgeable and the neophyte understand and appreciate. Here’s how she did just that-the exhibit begins with a chronological overview featuring key works, and then continues by examining three themes in depth:
- narrative impulses,
- the influence of 20th- century art movements on contemporary jewelry,
- andthe role of the body and performance jewelry.
If you miss this exhibit in Houston, it will travel, perhaps to a venue near you - the Renwick (March to June 2008), the Mint, Tacoma, and a possible European venue. It will be back in Houston in time for SNAG’s 2010 conference.
Meeting with Helen - the day before the exhibit opening, we benefited from some private time with Helen and a few of the jewelry artists whose work she has collected: Bruce Metcalf, Peter Chang, Robert and Louise Smit, and Peter Skubic.
Noting the genealogy aspect of Helen’s collection - she bought from artist professors, and then from their students’ MFA exhibits, and beyond - Robert Smit advises, “When you finish the school, you have to kill the teacher.” Bruce Metcalf adds, “When it’s been codified in the academy so that one can teach it, its moment is over.” Peter Chang changes the subject, just slightly, “Just as music is art, so is jewelry.”
We learned new terms - social jewelry is what Helen calls the jewelry made of precious materials worn on mainly formal social occasions. For Helen, an extremely important aspect of her collection stems from the friendships she developed with the artists-they became an extended family. In fact, more than 25 artists arrived from all over the world to celebrate this event with Helen - quite a tribute.
Answers to three questions you desperately want to ask:
Why Houston? How did MFAH get Helen’s collection? The answer is not easy to summarize, but it all started when Helen’s friend Ann Tucker celebrated her 25-year anniversary with the MFAH, and Helen came to Houston for the occasion, and Cindi asked Ann if she could meet Helen. At that point, the MFAH jewelry collection consisted of one piece by Art Smith. So, Cindi’s lunch with Helen was the first step in a long, wonderful journey.
What jewelry did Helen wear to the exhibit opening? A Claus Bury brooch.
Amazingly enough, we didn’t spend all our time at MFAH. We watched the sun set slowly and dramatically at the James Terrell installation at the Quaker’s Live Oak Meeting House - we toured the Project Row Houses and met the Flower Man - and we appreciated the Menil collection as well as jewelry artists Diane Falkenhagen, Sandra Zilker, and Jan Arthur Harrell, who were featured at Goldesberry Gallery, and we benefited from a private tour with curator Francis Marzio of the MFAH’s Glassell Gold Collection.
One of the most memorable, and educational, aspects of the trip was the symposium held before and after the exhibit opening. Speakers included Helen Drutt; curator Cindi Strauss; Glenn Adamson, Victoria & Albert, London; Grace Cochrane, former senior curator, Powerhouse Museum, Sydney; and Sharon Church, studio jeweler and professor, the University of the Arts, Philadelphia.
Did I mention food? No? Well, it would be too cruel for those of you who were not there. Let’s just say we did toast Sharon Campbell for her excellent restaurant choice of T’afia even though she wasn’t there to enjoy it.
It was a trip! We were jockeying with secret service people and the president of Ethiopia to get out of our hotel some mornings, and we certainly caused a stir at some stops with our adornment, and yet it seems that a good time was had by all.
“I went kicking and screaming into a great trip and art jewelry experience,” says Ron Porter of his first AJF trip. “Next time,” he predicts, “I will go peaceably and with enthusiasm!”
Please do come join us next time - peaceably and with enthusiasm, it’s really a great way to travel and learn in good company.
Andrea Janosik Wins AJF Emerging Artist 2007
Andrea Janosik of Brooklyn, New York, received the AJF’s Emerging Artist 2007 Award along with a $2000 cash prize. Nancy Worden headed the judging committee, which also included Harriete Estel Berman and Jean Mandeberg.
Andrea was also honored earlier this year with an Award of Excellence from the American Craft Council, Baltimore, MD.
She earned a BFA in product design/metals and a BA in creative writing from Parsons School of Design, New York, and also studied at the New York Studio School for Sculpture and the Lern Ort Studio in Duesseldorf, Germany.
Born in Slovakia, Andrea lived in Zambia and Germany before coming to the United States to complete her studies. Her work has been featured in the Schmuck 2006 exhibit in Munich, Germany, and at the Museum of Arts and Design, New York.
“My fascination with combining leather and silver has only grown over the years,” Andrea says. “Their contrasting qualities-soft and hard, pliant and sturdy, colorful and achromatic-create challenges, but also endless possibilities. Squeezing, stacking, pulling and rolling one into the other lets me explore and discover yet new ways of holding them together.”
AJF Sponsors Gerd Rothmann at SOFA
At SOFA Chicago on Friday, November 2, from 11 a.m. to noon, in Room 309, AJF will introduce our 2007 Emerging Artist Winner Andrea Janosik followed by our featured speaker Dutch artist Gerd Rothmann, whose talk is entitled The Space Between Thumb and Forefinger. Gerd’s work will be presented at SOFA by Ornamentum and Andrea’s work will be presented by Charon Kransen Arts. For more information about SOFA. Visit SOFA online using the “Quick Link” to the right.
AJF will also host a wine reception at SOFA from 4:30 to 6 p.m. on Friday, November 2, for AJF members and their guests.
Philadelphia Museum of Art Sponsors Craft Show
From November 8 to 11, the Philadelphia Museum of Art hosts their 31st annual Craft Show at the Pennsylvania Convention Center. Featuring 195 craft artists (53 new to the show this year) selected from 1,380 applicants, plus 26 guest artists from Canada, you’ll find at least 45 booths featuring art jewelry. See www.pmacraftshow.org for more details, sample work from each artist, and information about the craft show auction.
In the Forum
A NOTE FROM HELEN
Dear AJF members,
I want you to know how very much I appreciated your attendance at the opening of the exhibition - it was quite special. Your enthusiasm was also deeply appreciated. I loved seeing the next chapter of our field on your bodies. Each day revealed your acquisitions. The time to acquire Lechtzin, Skoogfors, Paley, Reiling, Bury and Junger may not be as accessible - but there is a world of artists for you to “conquer” - come to Washington March 13th when Ornament as Art opens at the Renwick - surprises awaits you!
Fondly, Helen
ELIZABETH’S PERSPECTIVE
“You can gain or lose weight, but your shoes and jewelry are always going to fit”
Co-owner of Velvet da Vinci gallery in San Francisco (the name was inspired by an old Perry Mason TV episode) and outgoing AJF Treasurer, Elizabeth Shypertt recently answered some questions posed by Sally von Bargen. As always, Elizabeth’s point-of-view is insightful and wonderfully light hearted.
Sally: How did you learn about AJF and why did you join?
Elizabeth: Fellow member Carol Windsor took me to an early AJF event at California College of Art and Craft to see the Ken Cory exhibit. I met a few fellow members who I liked very much and thought the organization was on the right path.
Sally:What is the most important acquisition you have made?
Elizabeth: I recently bought a piece by Ramon Puig Cuyas. He told me he considered this his “master” piece. It is a large brooch, which I don’t wear, but have on my bedroom wall. I think this is a wonderful piece by a master artist at the top of his field. Just as with fine art, this doesn’t mean Ramon won’t do another even …
AJF President Pat Rodimer announced the approval of the new 2008 Board of Directors. Susan Cummins, a founding member of AJF will serve as President, the Treasurer position is to be filled by Sally von Bargen, Susan Kempin becomes Secretary, and communication duties will be handled by Jane Shannon.
We conclude Susan Cummins’ conversation with MFA Boston curator, Kelly L’Ecuyer in this newsletter.
This year AJF took a bold step. We offered our members two trips instead of one, first to Boston for the opening of the Farago collection at the Boston MFA; and this month 25 AJF members will gather in Houston for the premier of the Helen Drutt collection at the MFAH. Organizing one trip is a complex endeavor; organizing two in one year verges on insane. What would have us go to such effort? The fundamental answer, simply put is, “the giving of gifts.” Helen Drutt and Daphne Farago gave gifts, and we honor them and the jewelry art form through our visits to the museums.
“The combination between jewelry and art is not always obvious. Jewelry means service to a defined function, realized in a suitable material, with extremely good taste. Art is first an expression, and cannot be motivated only by aesthetics. In art story and plot are interwoven with something hiding. But a jewelry piece can, like art, be narrative, abstract, socially moving or rebellious, reactionary or simply tender. Real jewelry is real art. The jewelry wearer is expected to think about the vision of the artists and furthermore propagate it.”
Homer Alaska is a fishing and art community near Bristol Bay. The vast and breathtakingly beautiful Bristol Bay ecosystem is home to immense fisheries, the world’s largest concentration of brown bears, massive herds of caribou and countless species of migratory birds. Homer is where artist and conservation advocate Rika Mouw lives. Rika makes and collects jewelry. As Rika ends her term on the AJF board, we invited her to share with us her thoughts about collecting and images of her favorite pieces. Rika was interviewed, via email by Sally von Bargen
As with anything I think the more informed you are about your subject matter, the better choices you will make and the more you will gain out of the experience. Collecting is educational and it is truly enjoyable. It is a journey actually. No matter the size of one’s collection I think it is a good idea to keep as much information about each piece as possible. A file with this information will always be helpful either to yourself or whomever your pieces will be passed on to. Have fun with it. I just have to say that for any art jewelry collector, the Art Jewelry Forum is a great place from which to learn, share and interact with others who have this passion. Art jewelry ’speaks’ and I guess I love the sense of voice it projects, wearing it connects me with the maker and my ‘art tribe’.
There are as many definitions of a collection as there are collectors. When noted art collector and philanthropist Eugene Thaw was asked how he would define the art of collecting, he answered with this beautiful explanation: “It’s about making some sense out of a group (large or small) of related objects that you’ve accumulated and having each one reinforce the others. You should always be reaching for better examples than what you have, and you should find out what you’re missing, too, so you can fill in the blank spaces. It’s an intellectual activity. I collect to learn and when I feel I have learned my way around a field enough to have a well-rounded collection I give it away — to museums. I no longer need to physically possess works of art, I have them in my mind’s eye.”
Discovering how objects came into the museum is an interesting aspect of any exhibition — some donated, others loaned, some given as a bequest or purchased with donated funds. Collectors and curators need each other, collectors for the work a museum desires and curators for bringing the work to the museum. For both the museum and donor there may be tax and legal considerations, for these reasons most museums offer highly personalized, full service consulting resources for all types of charitable giving.
Along with all these publications, she kept meticulous files on each artist and work of art in her collection, with all her invoices, receipts, correspondence, and magazine clippings. Again, this kind of record- keeping is a curator’s dream and it shows her thoughtful and intelligent approach to forming a museum-quality collection. If there is such a thing as a professional collector, Daphne would be it. To be continued…
We combined lunch with a tour of the innovative new Institute for Contemporary Art (ICA) museum on the Boston waterfront and an exhibition of work by Louise Bourgeois, one of our most influential living artists.
Back to Boston, where at the Museum of Fine Art we were greeted by Kelly L’Ecuyer. Kelly is the curator who worked closely with Daphne Farago to transfer her extensive collection to the museum. As she conducted our private tour of the first exhibition entitled “Jewelry By Artists, The Daphne Farago Collection,” she explained the wide-ranging plans the museum has for the collection. She also described how Farago was convinced of the artistic importance of the work and felt from the beginning that the collection should be housed in a fine arts museum which placed the jewelry in a large cultural context. Later that evening our group returned to the museum for the official opening reception to celebrate with the many artists, collectors and educators. As our trip came to a close we celebrated by sharing a wonderful meal together and gave a thankful toast to Pat and Susan for organizing such a terrific trip. As Orson Welles once said, “If you want a happy ending, that depends, on where you stop the story.” So, on a happy note we ended our trip to Boston. Next: Houston!
In the catalog that accompanied the Daphne Farago Collection exhibition we found this quote. It is too good not to be shared. Art historian Blanche R. Brown recalled her attraction and purchase of a brooch in 1947.
Kudos to Pat, Susan and Sharon. Among the many benefits of being a member of AJF, the collector trips are the most extraordinary and Boston proved the point. This wonderful trip was flawlessly organized by Pat Rodimer, Susan Cummins and Sharon Campbell. Thank you for making the trip so wonderful.
Mark your calendar: something rare is going to happen and you don’t want to miss it. A program will be on TV that you actually will want to watch, a program that you will find enlightening and best of all a program that will enthuse your passion for collecting. On Wednesday, May 30th, PBS will premier CRAFT IN AMERICA: Memory, Landscape, Community, a three-part high-definition series that explores the important role craftsmanship has played throughout American history. It gets even better because the television special is part of a multi-faceted project that includes this PBS documentary, a traveling museum exhibition, a lavishly illustrated book, and a resource rich website.
The project launches Wednesday, May 30th with the PBS premier of the Craft in America documentary which explores how craftsmanship has been passed from artist to artist over the last two centuries and highlights the central significance of craft in our society. In each episode we meet artists and discover what they do, how they do it and why they have chosen a life of creating art for all to appreciate.
Craft in America: Expanding Traditions is the landmark traveling museum exhibition associated with the TV program. It offers a historical survey featuring more than 200 works spanning a 200 years. These innovative objects will reveal how craft taps into, and shapes, wider cultural streams and flows freely into the broad narrative of contemporary art. The exhibition opened its eight-city, two year tour at the Arkansas Arts Center in Little Rock. The exhibition travels to Portland, OR; San Diego, CA; and Brockton, MA, and beyond.
It gets better! President Jimmy Carter, a long time craftsman and craft advocate, contributed to the prologue to the book, Craft in America: Celebrating Two Centuries of Artists and Objects. This lavishly illustrated book published by Clarkson Potter (Random House) features more than 200 images and showcases some of the greatest works of craft of the last two centuries. The publication explores the unique qualities of American craft while highlighting the objects created by Americas most original and esteemed artists. The book was co-authored by Jo Lauria and Steve Fenton.
The Art Jewelry Forum is fortunate to have many members whose contributions to the arts help ensure that artists and their works are promoted, protected and perpetuated. In upcoming issues of AJFconnection we will meet other members and invite them to share, in their own words, their creative insights and passions.

AJF has launched the 2007 candidate search for our Emerging Artist Award. AJF member Nancy Worden will spearhead our search as AJF seeks to acknowledge promise, innovation and individuality in the work of emerging artists. Harriete Estel Berman, artist and teacher, and Jean Mandeberg, artist and metals professor have accepted Nancy’s invitation to jury the entries.
In its inaugural year, United States Artists awarded 50 USA Fellowships to a total of 54 artists, and four artists’ collaboratives. Expert panels selected the winners from among 300 applicants representing every artistic discipline in 43 states. As USA Fellows, each artist receives an unrestricted grant of $50,000 to support his or her creative work.
We are thrilled that so many AJF members have signed up for our Boston trip. We are fast approaching our maximum capacity of 25 and have even had the hotel increase our room allotment. There is room for only a few more members so it’s time to decide if you wish to join us in Boston May 19-21. We urge you to act now by calling the hotel to book a room before the April 18th cutoff date and immediately send us your registration form and check.
The work of Anya Kivarkis, Assistant Professor of Jewelry/Metalsmithing at the University of Oregon in Eugene was selected to be included in the 8th Northwest Biennial at the Tacoma Museum of Art. The Biennial is structured to prompt meaningful dialogue about the Northwest’s artistic strengths and accomplishments. The exhibit opened in February and closes on May 6th.
Women’s Tales: Four Leading Israeli Jewelers, is the first comprehensive study of Israeli contemporary jewelry to focus on the careers of four of its leading women jewelers. The show, featuring 127 jewelry pieces, opens at the Bellevue Arts Museum this month. The exhibition began an international tour at the Racine Arts Museum, moves to Europe to tour in 2008-09 and closes at The Israel Museum in Jerusalem during 2009-2010.
The exhibition is the first in-depth study of the works of leading jewelry artists Bianca Eshel-Gershuni, Vered Kaminski, Esther Knobel, and Deganit Stern Schocken. Each of these artists has played a critical role in forging an Israeli identity in the contemporary jewelry movement, one that is distinctive of Europe and America. Their work has brought international attention to a country that was previously largely unrecognized for its contribution to contemporary jewelry. All four artist were trained in Europe and looked for inspiration in other European contemporary jewelry, which has a focus on non-precious materials. These four artists’ works are uniquely autobiographical, reflecting their womanhood as individuals, wives and mothers living in Israel and strongly impacted by its culture.
AJF made a contribution to the Museum of Fine Arts Houston that may have gone unnoticed by many AJF members. In 2006 the Museum was seeking funding support for the acquisition of “Neckpiece for Zymrina: a prostitute of Pompeii” by Keith Lewis. The museum desired to connect and contrast this important contemporary work with its collection of ancient Roman fresco paintings and classical jewelry. AJF, along with many individual AJF members, contributed funds which enabled the museum to add this master work to their jewelry collection.
The Mint Museum of Craft + Design has focused on raising capital to expand its contemporary international jewelry collection. The museum will add breadth and dimension to it’s collection by acquiring contemporary jewelry works that exhibit innovation, and originality and distinction in design. The end goal is to assemble a collection which will chronicle original conceptual and technical developments.
AJF is pleased to sponsor Australian artist Catherine Truman’s speaking engagement at SOFA New York in June. Catherine is co-founder of Gray Street Workshop in Adelaide, Australia. Established in 1985, it is one of Australia’s longest running contemporary jewelry studios. Her work has always been informed by a strong political consciousness. In recent work she investigates the authenticity of the images we carry about our personal anatomy. The resulting objects, characteristically carved from wood or wax, are not exact anatomical replicas but rather evoke sensory responses of physical recognition and resemblance.
The interior of the body is a concealed territory - the less we see the more we imagine. I’m interested in how we reveal and conceal the unfamiliar - the unaccustomed, the invisible. A curiosity of the very nature of the human body itself has always been a potent resource for the subject matter of my work and my choice of medium.”
Join us in Boston on May 20 and 21 for the opening of the Daphne Farago collection at the Museum of Fine Arts. With a selection of about 150 objects, this collection exhibition will provide a chronological and thematic survey of studio jewelry in the twentieth century. While demonstrating the breadth of the collection and the variety of artists’ approaches to jewelry-making, the show also offers in-depth exploration of works by many key artists.
Later this fall, September 26-30, we will be in Houston for the grand opening of the Helen Drutt Collection at the Museum of Fine Arts. We are working on the agenda for this trip in order to take maximum advantage of the various other activities being planned in conjunction with this opening. We will also find time to visit some of Houston’s other outstanding venues, including the DeMenil collection.
On Wednesday, January 24th at 6 p.m., Susan Cummins will lecture on Coming Into View, a traveling exhibition of work featuring emerging jewelers that originated in the home of Yaan Wooley dueing the Society of North American Goldsmiths 2006 Chicago conference. The lecture will take place in Eugene at the University of Oregon, Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art, where the exhibition is currently on view. A reception with the academic, local, and regional community will follow the lecture.
(contributed by Jo Lauria) An enthusiastic group of AJF members participated in our trip to Southern California this past October. Like all of our tours, these four days were filled with visits to artists’ studios, museums, galleries and even a private collection. And, as past trips have set the bar high for offering excellent cuisine and ambiance, San Diego and Los Angeles restaurants rose to the challenge and provided our members with a delightful and delectable array of fine dining experiences.
Collector Lynn Altman with AJF members Rika Mouw and Don Newman.
Artist Kristen Beeler discusses one of her necklaces at her Long Beach Studio
Artist Marianne Hunter explains the drawing process she uses for her jewelry pieces during a studio visit.
Professor Sondra Sherman and several of her students at San Diego State University chatting with artist Nancy Worden during the fall show of student and alumni work at the university’s art gallery.
Hall Nelson, former director of the Long Beach Museum of Art, hosts a private lunch for members
Arlene Fisch discusses one of her early necklaces at her Sand Diego studio.

One of the nicest things about AJF members is your willingness to share your opinions and views with us which is exactly what many of you did recently in response to our first membership survey. (We learned a lot about online surveys and next time we will make it easier to participate.)
2007 is shaping up to be a very interesting year. We can look forward to large-scale contemporary jewelry shows in two of the country’s most prestigious museums, MFA Boston and Houston Museum of Fine Arts. Our website will continue to grow and our programs will continue to evolve. We’ll share gallery news, artists of note, developments in the field. We plan to send AJFconnection twice a month to keep you in the know. If you have news you would like to share please let us know. We welcome your suggestions Handy email links are just a click away.
We are delighted to announce this year’s Emerging Artist Award Winner is Natalya Pinchuk. The jury was comprised of retired metals professor Arline Fisch, curator Gail M. Brown and renown jewelry artist Nancy Worden. The jury chose from thirty-three entries representing all regions of the U.S. as well as the Netherlands and Turkey. The criteria used to evaluate the entries were: originality, quality of craftsmanship and continuity of design. The jury was challenged and inspired by the high percentage of exceptional entries.