Book Reviews

AJF commissions various kinds of critically engaged writing about the field, including reviews of the books and catalogs about contemporary art jewelry and related practices that are published each year.

19 March 2013

Transplantation: A Sense of Place and Culture

Jo Bloxham, ed. Transplantation: A Sense of Place and Culture. England: University of Lincoln, 2012.
http://www.artjewelryforum.org/
Did this exhibition, via its catalog, live up to my expectations? It is clear that each of these jewelers put a lot of themselves into realizing the work they submitted for this show. Some more than others executed thought provoking work that really addressed Cherry’s transplantation brief. Did it showcase narrative jewelry? It certainly did not satisfy my expectations about narrative jewelry as a genre, but yes it certainly offered jewelry with a narrative. more...
15 September 2012

By Example: Australian Contemporary Jewellery

Karin Findeis (ed). By Example: Australian Contemporary Jewellery. Itami, Japan: Museum of Arts & Crafts-ITAMI, 2010.
Each jeweler is given a short paragraph to speak about their work, with an additional short text written by the mentors about their choice of students. None of these texts feel very satisfying, as they speak more to why the students where chosen, rather than addressing how the learning/teaching process occurred. How did they learn from one another? What was the process of learning? How will it continue to evolve? more...
11 September 2012

Hand + Made: The Performative Impulse in Art and Craft

Valerie Cassel Oliver (ed.). Hand + Made: The Performative Impulse in Art and Craft. Houston: Contemporary Arts Museum, 2010.
ISBN 978-1-933619-26-2
Purchase
The artists in Hand + Made are not content to let their work hang on a wall or sit on a pedestal; they seek active engagement. Oliver dubs this impulse towards interactivity ‘performativity,’ but a more accurate term would be ‘performed use.’ While the essayists seem eager to unshackle craft from its associations with function and the functional object, this is something that clearly sets craft apart and as such, should be celebrated. Disappointingly, the essayists seem to center their focus on the process of making rather than on the performative potential of the finished object. Adamson goes so far as to suggest that the object may not hold a central role in the future of craft, remarking that, for the work in Hand + Made, ‘the process is the product.’ more...
13 June 2012

On Jewellery: A Compendium of Contemporary Jewellery

Liesbeth den Besten. On Jewellery: A Compendium of Contemporary Jewellery. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche , 2011.
ISBN 9783897903494
Den Besten devotes quite a bit of attention to the artists who work in a more performative mode, like Yuka Oyama, Lauren Kalman and early Otto Künzli and seems to be biased in favor of these forms simply because they have the aura of the avant-garde. The notion that every idea that has been borrowed from the art world must be innovative within jewelry is a provincial argument. If a form or a concept is familiar outside the confines of jewelry, it’s no longer news. Period. The real question is whether it’s a good installation or a good performance, not if it’s a newer form of art-making. Still, it’s reasonable to have art about jewelry included in a book about jewelry. I just wish I could believe the author was more discriminating. more...
20 May 2012

Emmy + Gijs + Aldo

Jan Boelen (ed). Emmy + Gijs + Aldo. Rotterdam: 010 Publishers, 2010.
ISBN 9789064507441
Throughout the catalog, in brief passages, Boelen explores these commonalities as well as individual characteristics. For instance, the family shares an interest in the relationship between an object and the human body. While Emmy and Gijs often created ‘joint-like objects’ or what was called by Benno Premsela ‘a new kind of body art,’ Aldo has had a different approach. His designs ‘form extensions of the body.’ more...
29 February 2012

21st Century Jewelry: The Best of the 500 Series

Marthe Le Van (ed). 21st Century Jewelry: The Best of the 500 Series. Asheville: Lark Crafts, 2011.
ISBN 9781600595219
Eighty artists from around the globe were asked to select pieces that exemplify the evolution of recent art jewelry from any of the 500 Series books. They were also charged with justifying their choices in print and their comments pepper the pages of this book. I can't compliment her enough for this conceit. It has allowed me to revisit each work in a different context with the thoughts of others to consider. more...
06 September 2011

Ornament as Art: Avant-garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection

Cindi Strauss (ed). Ornament as Art: Avant-garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection. Houston & Stuttgart: The Museum of Fine Arts & Arnoldsche, 2007.
ISBN 9783897902732
Purchase
And so here it is, the enormous catalog to the Helen Williams Drutt collection, acquired by the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH) in Texas and co-published by that institution and Arnoldsche. Presided over by Cindi Strauss, curator of Modern and Contemporary Decorative Arts and Design, the publication is an extraordinary resource, packed full of analysis, images and the tools of art history (biography, bibliography, chronology and exhibition history). more...
05 September 2011

Art Meets Jewellery: 20 Years - Gallery Slavik Vienna

Cornelie Holzach, Eva-Maria Hoyer, Claudia Lehner, Karl Bollman, Edmund Hoke, Tomas Hoke, Barbara Maas. Art Meets Jewellery: 20 Years - Gallery Slavik Vienna. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2010.
ISBN 9783897903326
Two decades ago Renata Slavik opened a new gallery in Vienna dedicated to art jewelry. In this book of her experiences she confesses that, from selling antiques, she was entering an entirely new world. 'I had no idea I was setting out to explore a little known field,' she writes. How did she get to this present point in her career where she could understand how art meets jewelry and the challenges involved? more...