Book Reviews

AJF commissions various kinds of critically engaged writing about the field, including reviews of the books and catalogs about contemporary art jewelry and related practices that are published each year.

29 February 2012

21st Century Jewelry: The Best of the 500 Series

Marthe Le Van (ed). 21st Century Jewelry: The Best of the 500 Series. Asheville: Lark Crafts, 2011.
ISBN 9781600595219
Eighty artists from around the globe were asked to select pieces that exemplify the evolution of recent art jewelry from any of the 500 Series books. They were also charged with justifying their choices in print and their comments pepper the pages of this book. I can't compliment her enough for this conceit. It has allowed me to revisit each work in a different context with the thoughts of others to consider. more...
06 September 2011

Ornament as Art: Avant-garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection

Cindi Strauss (ed). Ornament as Art: Avant-garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection. Houston & Stuttgart: The Museum of Fine Arts & Arnoldsche, 2007.
ISBN 9783897902732
And so here it is, the enormous catalog to the Helen Williams Drutt collection, acquired by the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH) in Texas and co-published by that institution and Arnoldsche. Presided over by Cindi Strauss, curator of Modern and Contemporary Decorative Arts and Design, the publication is an extraordinary resource, packed full of analysis, images and the tools of art history (biography, bibliography, chronology and exhibition history). more...
05 September 2011

Art Meets Jewellery: 20 Years - Gallery Slavik Vienna

Cornelie Holzach, Eva-Maria Hoyer, Claudia Lehner, Karl Bollman, Edmund Hoke, Tomas Hoke, Barbara Maas. Art Meets Jewellery: 20 Years - Gallery Slavik Vienna. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2010.
ISBN 9783897903326
Two decades ago Renata Slavik opened a new gallery in Vienna dedicated to art jewelry. In this book of her experiences she confesses that, from selling antiques, she was entering an entirely new world. 'I had no idea I was setting out to explore a little known field,' she writes. How did she get to this present point in her career where she could understand how art meets jewelry and the challenges involved? more...
05 September 2011

Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection

Wolf-Dieter Seiwert. Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2010.
ISBN 9783897903197
In the late 1950s, Dr Ümit Bir set out with his stethoscope in his bag, traveling around the world and including frequent visits to Turkey, his home country. In 1960, he met an architect, Dr Rudolph Steinbach, who gave the order to 'start collecting!' Trained in 'the strenuous and exacting practice of medicine,' Bir turned out to be a good photographer, a note-taker and a methodical arranger of the artifacts he discovered. In the late 1990s, his growing collection was uncovered by Dr Wolf-Dieter Seiwert, who first curated an exhibition of Bir's collection and then wrote this book about it. more...
05 September 2011

Also Known as Jewellery*

Christian Alandete, Benjamin Lignel (eds). Also Known as Jewellery*. Paris: La Garantie, 2009.
This publication documents a hybrid project, somewhere between a survey exhibition – seventeen of the best French or French-based jewelers who are contributing to the 'spectacular evolution' of contemporary jewelry in France – and an argument about what contemporary jewelry is and does. The title 'underlines the specificity of contemporary jewellery and the ambiguity inherent to a craft-based, boundary-pushing practice,' resulting in an exhibition 'both alien to its tradition and well versed in its history.' more...
05 September 2011

Private Passion: Artists' Jewelry of the 20th Century

Yvonne Joris, De Marjoleine Vos, Van Willem Toorn, Rosita Steenbeck, Cornel Bierens . Private Passion: Artists' Jewelry of the 20th Century. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2010.
ISBN 9783897903203
This book is a cabinet of wonderful curiosities, particularly for people who are knowledgeable about twentieth and twenty-first century art history. It will also drive you slightly mad, like being invited to a grand buffet and only allowed to pick one or two dishes. more...
25 March 2011

By Hand: The Use of Craft in Contemporary Art

Shu Hung, Joseph Magliaro. By Hand: The Use of Craft in Contemporary Art. Princeton: Princeton Architectural Press, 2010.
ISBN 9781568989426
The references to sewing and embroidery indicate the focus of this book, which is really a collection of artists using textile techniques and materials, with a few who carve wood and make limited-edition artist books thrown into the mix. Which means that, through no fault of the authors, this book is not particularly interesting from a jewelry perspective, as the objects that are created by these artists don't tend to have much to do with the kind of objects created by contemporary jewelers. more...
19 September 2010

GlassWear: Glass in Contemporary Jewelry

Cornelie Holzach, Ursula Ilse-Neuman, Jutta Page. GlassWear: Glass in Contemporary Jewelry. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2007.
ISBN 9783897902749
This catalog accomplishes what all exhibition catalogs should. It makes one want to see the exhibition, increases understanding of the subject and supports the intent of the curator. In addition, it broadens the reader's knowledge of the subject and provokes further interest and discussion. more...